Because I intended to hide the locomotive's running gear behind armoured skirts, I used the tender that came with the train set as the basis of my armoured locomotive.
I removed the wheels (as usual they popped out quite easily) ...
... and I then used a razor saw to carefully remove the false wheels that were moulded onto the tender's wheel flanges.
Using the moulded line just below the lip at the top of the tender as a guide, I carefully sawed the top of the tender off.
I then glued three pieces of plastic strip (two long and one short) inside the top of the tender to strengthen it and to provide something to glue the top and cab of the armoured locomotive to.
Once the glue had cured, I carefully cut a small piece of Plasticard to the right size to fill in the part of the top of the armoured locomotive between its cab and the rear of the locomotive, and then glued it in place.
Once the glue had cured, I glued the locomotive's cab in place. (This was made from part of a previously re-modelled passenger carriage that I had put to one side for just such an eventuality.)
Once the glue had cured, I carefully cut a larger piece of Plasticard to the right size to fill in the part of the top of the armoured locomotive between its cab and the front of the locomotive, and then glued it in place.
Once the glue had cured, I attached a short Plasticard tube in place to be the locomotive's funnel and a small block of Plasticard between the funnel and the cab to represent the locomotive's armoured pressure dome.
Once the glue had cured, all that remained to complete the model was to glue the locomotive's armoured skirts in place. These were also made from thin Plasticard.
The armoured locomotive was now ready to be painted.
I removed the wheels (as usual they popped out quite easily) ...
... and I then used a razor saw to carefully remove the false wheels that were moulded onto the tender's wheel flanges.
Using the moulded line just below the lip at the top of the tender as a guide, I carefully sawed the top of the tender off.
I then glued three pieces of plastic strip (two long and one short) inside the top of the tender to strengthen it and to provide something to glue the top and cab of the armoured locomotive to.
Once the glue had cured, I carefully cut a small piece of Plasticard to the right size to fill in the part of the top of the armoured locomotive between its cab and the rear of the locomotive, and then glued it in place.
Once the glue had cured, I glued the locomotive's cab in place. (This was made from part of a previously re-modelled passenger carriage that I had put to one side for just such an eventuality.)
Once the glue had cured, I carefully cut a larger piece of Plasticard to the right size to fill in the part of the top of the armoured locomotive between its cab and the front of the locomotive, and then glued it in place.
Once the glue had cured, I attached a short Plasticard tube in place to be the locomotive's funnel and a small block of Plasticard between the funnel and the cab to represent the locomotive's armoured pressure dome.
Once the glue had cured, all that remained to complete the model was to glue the locomotive's armoured skirts in place. These were also made from thin Plasticard.
The armoured locomotive was now ready to be painted.
Like it!
ReplyDeleteSimple and effective.
Once I have progressed further, I will send you some pictures of the armoured train I am building, based on the old "Lone Star" trains.
Ian Dury,
ReplyDeleteI am please to read that you like my simple design. I based it on a photograph of a World War II armoured tank engine.
I look forward to seeing your armoured train when it is finished.
All the best,
Bob