I made my hill terrain squares using pre-cut 2.5mm-thick 10cm plywood squares, brown felt, PVA glue, Araldite two-part epoxy resin glue, and thick cork sheets (in my case, IKEA cork pot stands).
I made some brown felt covered terrain squares using the method outlined in my previous blog post but did not seal the felt using PVA. Instead I glued a smoothed or rough-edged piece of cork to the top of each terrain square using Aradite epoxy resin glue. These were held in place using a number of heavy objects whilst the epoxy glue cured.
I then glued suitably trimmed pieces of brown felt to the top of each hill, and when the PVA glue was dry, I sealed the whole terrain squares using a coat of PVA glue.
The river and road terrain squares were standard green terrain squares on which were painted 3cm-wide rivers or roads using craft acrylic paint, cerulean blue for the rivers and yellow ochre for the roads. Each river and road entered and left the terrain squares in the centre of a square’s side.
A 3 x 3 grid made up of various 10cm hill, river, and road terrain squares.
BOB,
ReplyDeleteNicely done there on your Terrain Boards- looking forward to seeing them used in your games. How have you been feeling?- hope your OK and well. Cheers. KEV.
Kev Robertson (Kev),
DeleteI finished them just before Sue and I went on a much-needed cruise … and hope to use them soon.
As to my health … well, I am off to see the oncology radiotherapist on Monday to see whether or not I will need radiotherapy.
All the best,
Bob
A nice looking set up. I think they will prove very durable as well.
ReplyDeleteMark Cordone,
DeleteCheers! I’m hoping that they will be robust enough to suffer the slings and arrows of wargaming use.
All the best,
Bob
Looking good! Could you save on the brown felt by just glueing a border onto the plywood and then using the 'middle' for the top of the hill? Or is that just me being a Yorkshire man!
ReplyDeleteJfidz,
DeleteThe layer of brown felt on top of the hills was an afterthought. My original intention was to make the hills separate entities that could be laid on top of plain brown terrain tiles, but my prototype cork hill warped and I knew from previous experience that by gluing the cork to the plywood, the cork would not warp.
All the best,
Bob
They look good, Bob! They suit the style of your armies very well, and the 'modular' arrangement of roads/rivers is sensible, of course. I look forward to seeing them in use..
ReplyDeleteQuestions - how many tiles are you aiming for ( and what dimensions for a typical battlefield? ) and have you got an idea of the proportions of 'plain' and various road/river/hill tiles you expect to use?
David in Suffolk,
DeleteCheers! I’m hoping to make enough tiles for at least a 5 x 5 (50cm x 50cm) or 6 x 6 grid (60cm x 60cm) grid … or possibly even larger.
All the best,
Bob
OOH.. I do like a bit of terrain making and your bold designs which make an impressive splash. Carl
ReplyDeleteCarl,
DeleteCheers! By using coloured felt, I manage to ensure that the whole process is faster - and more consistent - than flock. It’s also quite cheap, as I manage to cover four tiles with one A4-sized piece of felt that costs 50p.
All the best,
Bob