A couple of days ago I received a very interesting email from Jim Getz, the text of which follows:
'Since you have been showing some shots of 2 and 1/2 dimension buildings for your Portable Wargame I thought I might send a couple of shots of my 2 and 1/2 dimension buildings that I use in my Not Really Very Portable At All wargame. These pictures are from an Aspen Essling wargame that Duke Seifried and I put on at the 2009 Historicon. As you can see I mixed in some full, three dimension buildings as well. I make my buildings as one face of a walled courtyard that is sized to fit the move stands we use. This game is using Uncle Duke’s Napoleonique rules which uses the regiment as the basic unit. Anyone interested in doing these types of buildings can find lots of free graphics on the internet to download. A little Photoshopping, or any other photo editing app, and they are ready to go. The foam core inner structure takes a bit of work, but it is pretty much just straight line cut and glue. It’s a pretty cheap and fun (if you like the model making side of it) way to make very functional scenery.'
In a follow-up email he added the following:
'I might also mention one other 'trick' I use. Paper buildings are obviously a bit on the flat side so in an attempt to make them somewhat more dimensional, I found some markers at the local art store that are available in a variety of subtle shades that can be used to shade the basic colors. The brand I used is called Berol Prismacolor Art Markers. I don’t know if that particular brand is available on your side of the pond but I’m sure there is something equivalent. Just a few quick stokes under the eves or on the roof to break up the sold color of the printing and you get much more 'depth.''
'Later this year I’m going to get into the War of the Spanish Succession (a period Chandler got me interested in decades ago but with which I have done nothing, ugh) using WoFun 18mm flats. Considering my history of using two and a half dimension buildings I think my motto now is 'The Future is Flat'.'
Jim has shared some very useful tips and ideas in his emails, and as the photographs show, the results are very effective.
Please note that the photographs featured above are © Jim Getz.
They look very good. It helps that European buildings of the period frequently had courtyards and wall gardens!
ReplyDeleteJon S,
DeleteThese buildings look remarkably effective, especially when several of the them are grouped together with walls etc.
All the best,
Bob
They look great! Thank you.
ReplyDeleteBest Regards,
Stokes
Heinz-Ulrich von Boffke (Stokes),
DeleteThey do, don't they! They have certainly given me plenty of ideas that I'd like to try out.
All the best,
Bob
They look great. Thanks to you and Jim for sharing them. I particularly like the layered effect to produce a busy townscape.
ReplyDeleteNundanket,
DeleteI have seen the layered effect used by model railway modellers to give the impression of depth to a landscape, especially when depicted a town. It is certainly an idea that is worth 'stealing'!
All the best,
Bob
Hi Bob,
ReplyDeleteInteresting Buildings and Scenery- I've not see these type of buildings used to this extent to create a whole township- well done by Jim. How is your FLW Armies going Bob? Regards. KEV.
Kev Robertson (Kev),
DeleteChris Kemp uses this sort of building to create towns and cities for his World War II Eastern Front battle. The latest is Sevastopol, and photographs can be seen on his blog.
Work on my FLW/PW armies has stalled for a bit due to Sue and I taking a short break, but I hope to resume over the next few days.
All the best,
Bob
Hi Bob
ReplyDeleteGreat to see those buildings. About 20 years ago myself and others did a very similar thing, down to the color depths etc. Very effective. We had just started using hexes too and wanted space in the hex for the toys. Looks good.
Arthur,
DeleteIt is amazing how a few visual 'tricks' can make something that is 2 or 2.5D look 3D. It would be nice if you could share some photographs of your buildings so that others can learn from your experience.
All the best,
Bob
I hope that the "future is"not entirely"flat" Bob and Jim as I remember playing Franco-Prussian wargames with Pat Condray (RIP) and his flats back in the day and going home with a crick in my neck from having to look sideways at the figures to see what was attacking me - it was almost always a surprise! Everytime I was in DC on business, I would jump over to game with Pat, it was always great fun!
ReplyDeleteDick, the Paperboys flats are face on, so the player sees their backs and the opponent sees their fronts - much easier to identify! I've heard it said that the side-on types are good for solo gamers who don't have to play from a specific table side.
DeleteDick Bryant,
DeleteActually, that is an advantage that flats have that I had never considered before!
I think of the 2.5D buildings as being the terrain equivalent of semi-round figures, which take up less tabletop space than fully round figures but which can be recognised for what they are head on.
All the best,
Bob
Jennifer,
DeleteAlthough I don't have any Paperboys as such, I di have some WoFun figures, some of which are head on and some are side on. Funnily enough, to me the smaller figures look better head on and the larger ones seem to work well both head on or side on.
All the best,
Bob
Thanks for the photos! I've gotten some good ideas for coloring from the buildings in Charles S. Grant's books; he's especially good at making windows look right.
ReplyDeleteI'm definitely interested in 2.5 buildings, and could see making them from a couple sheets of foamcore sandwiched together. Or are they all folded paper and taped onto the field?
Jennifer,
DeleteCheers! I find these sort of photographs inspiring, and only wish that I had more time to copy the ideas that they generate!
Charles Grant's buildings were excellent, and I must admit to trying to copy his ideas - not very well - when I bought a copy of his first book.
I think that there is no 'right' way to make 2.5D buildings, and you could use foamcore, paper, cardboard, thin balsawood and/or basswood, or whatever you have to hand. Hopefully some of the ideas that have been generated on the PW Facebook page and ioGroup will give you a pointer to help you produce your own 2.5D buildings.
All the best,
Bob
Jennifer - I used foam core for the inner structure of the 2.5D buildings. The walls are a single sheet thick and some of the buildings two sheets. The images are cut and glued to the foam core. Next time I do this I’m going to try just scoring the paper and folding - not sure I have the “touch” to do that though! The 3D paper buildings also have a foam core inner structure but not solid.
DeleteImpGrdArt,
DeleteThanks very much for sharing your technique for building 2.5D buildings. The more ideas that people can play around with, the better!
All the best,
Bob
Thanks ImpGrdArt! Very useful comments. I'm now looking at the Paperboys building art and thinking how to reduce them.
DeleteJennifer,
DeleteI know quite a few people who use photocopiers or scanners to reduce the size of the original drawings. They can then be printed out on card using a colour laser or inkjet printer.
All the best,
Bob
Really interesting ideas, thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteTradgardmastare,
DeleteCheers! I suspect that this concept might work quite well with your Theatrum Mundi.
All the best,
Bob