I sat down today with the intention of building a prototype L-shaped built-up area that consisted of houses ... but when I actually got around to it, I ended up with a official-looking building with columns and a portico! I also fixed the model to a base as it is my intention to do this with all my L-shaped built-up areas in due course, and I wanted to see what it looked like.
(The 15mm-scale figure is included to give some idea of the size of the completed model.)
To date my models have been built using balsa wood, basswood, and thin plywood, all glued together using superglue from the local 99p Store. I am not sure how strong the glued joints are (it was very cheap) and I find working with it problematic ... so I am thinking about using PVA wood glue in future. The models will take longer to construct (unlike superglue PVA does not bond instantly) but I know that once glued, the joints will be very strong indeed.
(The 15mm-scale figure is included to give some idea of the size of the completed model.)
To date my models have been built using balsa wood, basswood, and thin plywood, all glued together using superglue from the local 99p Store. I am not sure how strong the glued joints are (it was very cheap) and I find working with it problematic ... so I am thinking about using PVA wood glue in future. The models will take longer to construct (unlike superglue PVA does not bond instantly) but I know that once glued, the joints will be very strong indeed.
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Bob, I really like the looks of these building; being into hex and grid tables these could solve the problem of "built up areas". Have you thought of maybe having open windows to represent the figures being inside the building, especially for WW2 games? Just a suggestion.
ReplyDeleteJhnptrqn,
ReplyDeleteThese L-shaped buildings should look all right on a hexed or square gridded tabletop, and should serve the purpose of representing built-up areas quite well.
I have been thinking about having open windows in the buildings, and may well try that idea on my next prototype.
All the best,
Bob
Looks splendid
ReplyDelete"Harold Gerry" would be impressed how his original concept is still alive.
I remember at a COW where he demonstrated damage to his beautifully painted versions by just ripping them. This was to the hock/horror of everyone present. Quite a moment
Must get around to retrying the concept myself, Thanks for the prompts.
Will
Will McNally,
ReplyDeleteHarold Gerry ... there's a name from the past!
I remember meeting him at COW, but don't remember any sessions or games that he ran ... and I certainly would have remembered someone doing that to their model buildings.
All the best,
Bob
You won't regret going to PVA, Bob. It can be diluted and used as a coat to seal the balsawood too. Just watch out for it shrinking and curling up the edges, but you know that sort of stuff ... I remember hearing you discussing bendy bases with Phil Barker at a long-past COW.
ReplyDeleteRegards, Chris.
It will be interesting to see this prototype painted too...
ReplyDeleteChris Kemp,
ReplyDeleteI have been using PVA on my completed wooden models for some years to seal and also protect the surfaces before I paint them ... and it has worked very well indeed.
I think that I can avoid the curling problem by clamping the pieces together using small bulldog clips ... of which I have quite a number. If I glue the pieces cross-grain it laminates them like plywood, which adds to the strength as well.
All the best,
Bob
Tradgardmastare,
ReplyDeleteOnce I am satisfied that I have the construction method 100% right, I will make - and paint - a range of L-shaped built-up area models.
All the best,
Bob
Bob
ReplyDeleteVery nice, in fact, seriously nice.
Cardboard or tape will enable a hinge effect at the join to bend to either 60 or 90 degrees as required for hexes/squares.
Make templates, publish then under a suitable trade name, say "Bob the Builder".
Bet you heard that one before, I am relapsing to schoolboy days.
Regards
Arthur,
ReplyDeleteI like the idea of a flexible link between the two parts so that the models can be used on squared or hexed grids. I may give it a try when I have the time.
I will certainly hope to produce a 'How to ...' guide once I have got the basic production method right. As to releasing templates ... well I might do so, but I will use the name 'Bob the Temple Builder' as that is my moniker on TMP.
All the best,
Bob
PS. If you have not realised, 'Bob the Temple Builder' refers to my membership of Freemasonry.
Bob
ReplyDeleteYou really p**s me off! I no sooner get my buildings painted up to my satisfaction then you come up with another great idea that sets me to wanting to start all over again!
Tearing up buildings to show damage reminds me of a player at a DBA tournament who brought beautifully painted cattle with him. He "sacrifed" them "to the gods" with a hammer whenever he had an important die roll to make. It seemed to work for him.
Dick Bryant,
ReplyDeleteSorry! It just happened ... and now I am working to perfect the idea ... even though I have loads of buildings sitting in my storage boxes!
Tearing bits off models - or destroying them with a hammer - always seemed a bit extreme to me BUT I do remember Paddy Griffith running a siege game where the fortifications were made of cake and the besieging side had to eat whatever their guns ‘destroyed’.
Now that sounds like a good idea … as long as you like cake.
All the best,
Bob