I could not resist experimenting with painting the smaller of the two boards I had acquired from Warbases. Whilst the result was not 100% successful, I learnt some very useful lessons which will help me to ensure that the larger board will be painted to a much better standard.
The method that I used is as follows:
Step 1
I clipped the four pieces together to form a single board. I then used ordinary sticky tape to mask off the outer edge. (Lesson learnt: I should have used proper masking tape as the sticky tape did not react well with the surface of the MDF and roughened it up when it was removed.)
Step 2
Using thinned Humbrol Matt Grass Green enamel paint, I painted the unmasked surface of the board using a flat paintbrush. This had the effect of staining rather than painting the surface. (Lesson learnt: I painted the boards in one direction, with the result that when the paint dried, the direction of the brush strokes was visible. I'll not do that again!)
Step 3
I turned the board through ninety degrees, and gave the board a second coat of thinned paint. This went some way to reducing the visibility of the brush strokes produced by the first coat. (Lesson learnt: As the second layer of paint was drying, I dabbed a small sponge over the wet surface. This seemed to produce a mottled effect in places, and in future I'll apply the thinned paint using a sponge and not a brush.)
Step 4
When the paint was thoroughly dry, I removed the sticky tape (see above) and used proper masking tape to mask off the painted part of the board from the outer edge. I then painted the outer edge using Humbrol Matt Black.
The finished Portable Wargame board looked like this:
Although the etched-in grid lines are not very visible when seen from a distance, close to they are ... which is what I hoped would happen.
I'm now thinking about painting the larger of my two boards, and when I do so, I'll certainly use what I have learnt to ensure that I end up with a board that is painted to a much better standard. In the meantime, I'm just going to see what the painted board looks like with a few figures marching across it ...
For those of you who might have missed my very short blog entry about the availability of the larger size of four-piece board, Warbases have now included it in their catalogue.
The method that I used is as follows:
Step 1
I clipped the four pieces together to form a single board. I then used ordinary sticky tape to mask off the outer edge. (Lesson learnt: I should have used proper masking tape as the sticky tape did not react well with the surface of the MDF and roughened it up when it was removed.)
Step 2
Using thinned Humbrol Matt Grass Green enamel paint, I painted the unmasked surface of the board using a flat paintbrush. This had the effect of staining rather than painting the surface. (Lesson learnt: I painted the boards in one direction, with the result that when the paint dried, the direction of the brush strokes was visible. I'll not do that again!)
Step 3
I turned the board through ninety degrees, and gave the board a second coat of thinned paint. This went some way to reducing the visibility of the brush strokes produced by the first coat. (Lesson learnt: As the second layer of paint was drying, I dabbed a small sponge over the wet surface. This seemed to produce a mottled effect in places, and in future I'll apply the thinned paint using a sponge and not a brush.)
Step 4
When the paint was thoroughly dry, I removed the sticky tape (see above) and used proper masking tape to mask off the painted part of the board from the outer edge. I then painted the outer edge using Humbrol Matt Black.
The finished Portable Wargame board looked like this:
Although the etched-in grid lines are not very visible when seen from a distance, close to they are ... which is what I hoped would happen.
I'm now thinking about painting the larger of my two boards, and when I do so, I'll certainly use what I have learnt to ensure that I end up with a board that is painted to a much better standard. In the meantime, I'm just going to see what the painted board looks like with a few figures marching across it ...
Some 15mm-scale Peter Laing 1870 Prussian Infantry on my newly-painted Portable Wargame board.
For those of you who might have missed my very short blog entry about the availability of the larger size of four-piece board, Warbases have now included it in their catalogue.
Sponging or stippling the paint on will give a much better finish IMHO, as you won't see any brush strokes.
ReplyDeleteSteve J.,
DeleteI'm going to use a sponge next time for exactly that reason.
All the best,
Bob
Hi Bob,
ReplyDeleteIt is good that you have experimented with this first board- your 50mm one should be a breeze to complete. Do like the 15mm Peter Laing Prussians - very nice figures indeed...perhaps a 'Dorking' scenario later on? Regards. KEV.
Kev Robertson (Kev),
DeleteIt never hurts to experiment ... and it certainly paid dividends this time.
If I had some suitable British 15mm-scale figures, I'd certainly be giving the Battle of Dorking scenario a go.
All the best,
Bob
That looks great Bob.
ReplyDeleteWarbases are very good in my experience
Maudlin Jack Tar,
DeleteCheers! I must admit that I have always been very impressed by the service provided by Warbases, and thoroughly recommend them to anyone.
All the best,
Bob
Will you paint up the other side in a different scheme?
ReplyDeleteNigel Drury,
DeleteThe other side of the board is blank (i.e. it had no grid on it), but I could paint it if I wanted an ungridded tabletop.
All the best,
Bob
Or perhaps mark a grid onto it with hexes or different sized squares.
DeleteI give MDF a couple of coats of matt varnish before painting. I have used both spray and brush varieties.
ReplyDeleteJim Duncan,
DeleteCheers! That is what Warbases recommend ... and I'll certainly be following this advice in future.
All the best,
Bob
How about a spray paint to get an even texture?
ReplyDeleteDick Bryant,
DeleteIt would certainly be an answer, but I don't have anywhere where I can use spray paint. Even our garden won't do as it is almost always windy thanks to our location,
All the best,
Bob
As is mine. I'm on a small lake and the wind blows across it constantly. I use a large cardboard box closed end to the wind and it works quite well. It is how I undercoat all my "stuff"!
DeleteLooks nice, and a good green. My own square-grid table is much too dark... I like the variegated mottled effect.
ReplyDeleteArchduke Piccolo,
DeleteI used thinned Humbrol Matt Grass Green enamel paint to paint the board.
I like the mottled effect but would have preferred it if the lines had not been quite so obvious. I'm going to try using a sponge next time to see if I can produced a similar effect but without the lines.
All the best,
Bob
Personally, I'd keep the lines. I tried marking little '+' signs to denote squares, but, as you saw a few months back, they kinda vanish into invisibility. You know where you are with clear lines...
DeleteArchduke Piccolo,
DeleteI should have made it clear that the lines that I had problems with were those created because I used a brush to paint the board. The brush strokes left lines, and it is those that I'd hoped would less obvious, not the grid lines,
I hope that has cleared up the confusion I created.
All the best,
Bob
I have an eagle eye for ambiguity, and always pick the 'other' meaning from that intended.
DeleteArchduke Piccolo,
DeleteIt's an excellent trait, and one I look for in a potential proof reader!
All the best,
Bob
Bob, I was surprised you didn't use emulsion paint, rather than Humbrol, for such a - relatively - large area. Was the Humbrol the only suitably coloured paint you had to hand, or does oil-based paint adhere better to MDF? I've no experience of working with MDF.
ReplyDeleteRegards, Arthur
Arthur1815 (Arthur),
DeleteI used Humbrol paint because I had it to hand as it is the paint I've used on the bases of my Napoleonic figures.
In the past I've found that water-based paints seem to soak into the MDF more than spirit-based paint, hence my preference for Humbrol paint rather than emulsion paint.
All the best,
Bob
Thanks, Bob. I have a small MDF box which contained oranges from a local supermarket; I'll do some experiments on it with different paints before I order and paint my own portable boards.
DeleteRegards, Arthur
Arthur1815 (Arthur),
DeleteOne suggestion that Jim Duncan made that I'm seriously considering implementing is sealing the MDF with a couple of coats of Matt varnish before painting it.
Good luck with your experiments.
All the best,
Bob