Having learnt some very useful lesson when I painted my smaller PORTABLE WARGAME board, I adopted a somewhat different method when I painted my larger board.
Step 1
Using masking tape, the edge area of the grid on each of the four sections that make up the complete board was masked off. This was done so that the edge area could be painted first.
Step 2
The edge area of each board section was then painted. I used two coats of Humbrol Matt Black enamel paint.
Step 3
Once the painted edge area was dry (I left mine for twelve hours!), the masking tape was removed.
Step 4
More masking tape was then used to masked off the edge area of each board section.
Step 5
A small piece of sponge (I used a section cut from a new washing-up sponge) ...
... was carefully dipped into a small amount of paint (I used Humbrol Matt Sand enamel paint) that had been poured onto a suitable flat container that could serve as a palette. (The paint on the palette will need to be topped up during the painting process, but it is better not to put too much on at any time to avoid any accidents.)
The paint was then dabbed all over the surface of the unpainted part of each board section. This had the effect of putting a small, thin coat of paint onto each section.
When the paint dried, the surface had a slightly mottled appearance where different thicknesses of paint have been applied. This was the effect I wanted to achieve as it made the surface less uniform in appearance and still allowed players to see the grid lines.
As soon as the paint had dried (it did not take long as the coat of paint was so thin), the masking tape was removed and any any part of the black surround that had lost some of its paint was touched up.
Once the paint used to touch up any damage had dried, the board was ready for use.
Step 1
Using masking tape, the edge area of the grid on each of the four sections that make up the complete board was masked off. This was done so that the edge area could be painted first.
Step 2
The edge area of each board section was then painted. I used two coats of Humbrol Matt Black enamel paint.
Step 3
Once the painted edge area was dry (I left mine for twelve hours!), the masking tape was removed.
Step 4
More masking tape was then used to masked off the edge area of each board section.
Step 5
A small piece of sponge (I used a section cut from a new washing-up sponge) ...
... was carefully dipped into a small amount of paint (I used Humbrol Matt Sand enamel paint) that had been poured onto a suitable flat container that could serve as a palette. (The paint on the palette will need to be topped up during the painting process, but it is better not to put too much on at any time to avoid any accidents.)
The paint was then dabbed all over the surface of the unpainted part of each board section. This had the effect of putting a small, thin coat of paint onto each section.
When the paint dried, the surface had a slightly mottled appearance where different thicknesses of paint have been applied. This was the effect I wanted to achieve as it made the surface less uniform in appearance and still allowed players to see the grid lines.
WARNING: Some of the paint will inevitably seep into the sponge and onto your fingers. It may well be a good idea to wear a disposable plastic glove on the hand you use to hold the sponge to ensure that this does not happen. I didn't ... and nearly left painted fingerprints on everything I touched afterwards!Stage 6
As soon as the paint had dried (it did not take long as the coat of paint was so thin), the masking tape was removed and any any part of the black surround that had lost some of its paint was touched up.
Once the paint used to touch up any damage had dried, the board was ready for use.
Some of my 15mm-scale Essex Miniatures in action on the newly-painted PORTABLE WARGAME board.
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Hi Bob,
ReplyDeleteYou've done a splendid job here - this new board will be ideal for the Sudan type battles...I do like your Essex 15mm Dervish and British...very nice figures are the Essex 15mm- well painted up too. I note that you like to use Humbrol even for relatively large surfaces...I would tend to use Artists Acrylics such as 'Jo Sonjas' etc or 'Dulux' -Interior Flat Acrylic House paint...all water based. Cheers. KEV.
Kev Robertson (Kev),
DeleteCheers! It turned out better than I hoped it would, and I'm hoping to use it in the next week or do.
I bought these Essex Miniatures ready painted, and all I had to do was to base them and touch up the old detail.
I used Humbrol paint because I had the right colour to hand. I normally use craft acrylic paints for most of my painting, particularly terrain, because it is considerably cheaper than 'proper' modelling paint.
All the best,
Bob
Bob, the painted board looks very good - though the black border seems somewhat funereal; in mourning for the inevitable casualties, no doubt. The grid squares are visible, without being obtrusive. My own board will, of course be green for more temperate climes! I must do some experiments to see what goes well will the bases on my armies, but will need to get some paints as all mine have dried up after not being used for years...
ReplyDeleteBest wishes,
Arthur
Arthur1815 (Arthur),
DeleteCheers! I was going to paint the edge white ... but couldn't find any matt white paint! Actually, the black looks all right with the green-coloured board but not so good with the sand-coloured one.
I did think of having alternate black and white sections around the edge, with letters and numbers to give coordinates for games with hidden movement or to record the movement of units.
Good luck with finding some suitable paint.
All the best,
Bob