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Thursday 13 October 2022

Prototype terrain squares

I have made several prototype terrain squares using the method that was sketchily outlined in my previous blog post. The plain terrain square looked like this ...

... and my first attempt at a hill terrain square looked like this:

As the latter looked a bit too rugged, I made another where the sides are much smoother, thus:

I am now embarking on the wholesale 'manufacture' of twenty-five plain terrain squares, after which I will make four hill terrain squares.

20 comments:

  1. That's given me an idea of how to use some cork I took home from an old project at work. I can break up the edges where required to give a more stony look to a hill etc. Something else to add to the list!

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    1. Steve J.,

      In someways the more rugged look has greater appeal, but for most hills I think that the smoother ones work better. Perhaps I could make some of each? It’s certainly something for me to think about!

      All the best,

      Bob

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  2. Somehow, Bob, I am inclined to name these hills Esau and Jacob: for 'my brother Esau is an hairy man, but I, I am a smooth man...' I like the look of the latter, but I have a feeling the other might be more representative of a wilder country.

    I'd do both, the one representing cultivated or pastoral hills with easy slopes, the other steeper and more rugged, more difficult to traverse.
    Cheers,
    Ion

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    Replies
    1. Archduke Piccolo (Ion),

      Thanks for the helpful suggestion. I am coming around to that way of thinking. A mixture of hills will give me more options, especially if I also create some sandy/desert terrain squares.

      All the best,

      Bob

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  3. Hello there Bob,

    Looking at the ‘rough cut’ hill one could paint the ragged bits in grey to represent a rocky outcrop or similar - handy for sniping irregular tribesmen…

    All the best,

    DC

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    Replies
    1. David Crook,

      I am coming around to the idea of having a mixture of round and smooth hills for the sort of reasons you include in your comment.

      All the best,

      Bob

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  4. For the hills, maybe make an occasional side partially rough, like about a third of the side. If you plan to paint and flock them, the rough part will look like a rock outcrop sticking out

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    Replies
    1. Chris,

      Thanks for the suggestion. I may well give your idea a go.

      All the best,

      Bob

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  5. Hi Bob,

    I miss miniature wargaming due to lack of opponents and conventions. I've been thinking about running a solo colonial Sudan campaign game using your rules in "The Portable Colonial Wargame" the last 2 months.

    For a gridded board to play games on, I like your idea of using plywood squares. I was thinking of using a piece of felt and adding little colored dots for the grid.

    But using plywood squares would be easier and you can see the grid better.

    I might use your fast play 3X3 portable colonial rules to fight some or all of the battles.

    Good luck with your terrain squares.

    Scott

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    Replies
    1. Scott,

      The PW rules are ideal for solo wargames, and it’s not too difficult to use them to run a solo campaign. I would suggest that the ‘Snakes & Ladders’ campaign system (as featured in the PW Compendium) is the simplest and quickest solo campaign system to use.

      I’ve used a felt cloth with corner dots without any problems, but I’m looking at using the terrain squares because I like to model more permanent terrain that I can transport easily.

      All the best,

      Bob

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  6. Good to see progress on the terrain modelling front, Bob. Couple of questions- any warping issues as the glue dries on the squares? (I’ve had a couple of bendy 2mm mdf probs in the recent past)…And what is the best way to smooth the cork the way you did…was it eg surform, files, sandpaper??

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    1. Martin S.,

      To date, I've not experienced any warping as the glue had dried, but I would expect a little. My intention is to 'paint' both sides of the plywood tiles with PVA in the hope that this will prevent it.

      As to shaping the cork ... well, I use a blunt modelling knife to trim it, them sandpaper to finish the job. I do this over a wastepaper bin that I have put a bin liner into so that the bits that come off don't go everywhere.

      All the best,

      Bob

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    2. Many thanks, Bob. And yes, the bin liner sounds like a wise move 😊.

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    3. Martin S.,

      Take it from me, the cork can go everywhere if you’re not careful!

      All the best,

      Bob

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    4. But save the granulations for basing flick or scree?

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    5. Jfidz,

      An excellent suggestion!

      All the best,

      Bob

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  7. Very interesting Bob, i have been working on something similar for my fantasy game. I went for EVA foam for my hills. I also painted a board with 4 inch squares version neutral colours.
    Interested how you're progress.

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    1. Stephen Smith,

      That’s an interesting approach.

      I used 4-inch plywood squares and cork because I already had them to hand, and I’ve covered them with felt because I was able to buy sheets of it cheaply.

      I look forward to seeing you terrain squares when they are finished.

      All the best,

      Bob

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